Shack 29H
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- Joined
- Mar 6, 2020
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Doing the annual and found necking on the old bungees, so it was time to learn how to change them. Thanks to folks who posted here earlier for all the necessary information. I ended up using the engine hoist method, with a thick wooden base and a 1 1/2" hole drilled through it for the strut. Used a grade-8 3 inch 5/16" bolt in the strut end underneath the wood to keep it from pulling through the hole. The pictures don't show it, but there are big 3" screws in the wood base along the outside of the engine hoist legs to keep the wood from shifting back and forth.
Getting the bungees to clear the strut ear as they stretched upwards required some improvisation, and a big socket was the perfect solution to hold the bungees away enough to get past the ear without damage. A big screwdriver worked well to encourage the bungees over the ear, and then with the hoist lowered they settled into place. Had to cut the rope close to the bungee and pull the loose end out with the hoist. KY Jelly worked great and the bungees snugged right into position.
My Cub is 730#, and I paired a 1080 and a 1280HD on each strut. I'll report here if it's too loose. It had two 1280HD's on it before, but it was pretty crowded.
Getting the bungees to clear the strut ear as they stretched upwards required some improvisation, and a big socket was the perfect solution to hold the bungees away enough to get past the ear without damage. A big screwdriver worked well to encourage the bungees over the ear, and then with the hoist lowered they settled into place. Had to cut the rope close to the bungee and pull the loose end out with the hoist. KY Jelly worked great and the bungees snugged right into position.
My Cub is 730#, and I paired a 1080 and a 1280HD on each strut. I'll report here if it's too loose. It had two 1280HD's on it before, but it was pretty crowded.
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